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清朝人喜欢穿什么样的鞋子?

热度 11已有 990 次阅读2020-8-7 13:11 |个人分类:古今收藏

2020-8-6

早年曾经在英国一个世袭伯爵(白德福)家的私人博物馆里,看到过一双精致的中国宫廷女人穿的三寸金莲的鞋子,是明黄的段子面,像两只饺子,真的是小巧玲珑,人见人爱,后来再没有看到过类似的。维多利亚女王曾经下榻过伯爵家,女王睡觉用过的帐子,也是明黄的颜色。当时就觉得,干嘛这全世界的赵家人,都和这明黄过不去呢!下面的这十几双鞋子,是大清朝时候,咱中国人喜欢穿的,被分别收藏在英国、美国和俄罗斯的多个博物馆(维多利亚、大都会、圣地亚哥、圣彼得堡、旧金山亚洲美术馆)里。

1、满族男人穿靴:

Type: Silk Boots

Description: 19th century China Decorative Arts Silk Boots

Medium and Support: Silk, leather

Credit Line: Gift of Alice W. Peelle

Accession Number: 1984.30.a-b

Dimensions: 9 1/2 in. x 2 3/8 in. x 6 1/2 in. (24.13 cm x 6.03 cm x 16.51 cm)

  • 满九品官靴:These boots were given as part of the set “Costume of a Civil Mandarin of the 9th rank” that included, apart from this pair of boots, a dragon robe, mandarin hat, necklace, two belt flaps, collar and fan cases, on 26 July 1956.
  • 普通满人穿的靴子:Pair of boots for Manchu men of plain black satin upper, most likely worn by the lower ranks especially with its relatively thin soles made of layers of felted paper painted white, with green leather rand and stitched-on leather bottom. It has thin strips of leather piping on its front and back seams to reinforce its shape.

2、满族女人不裹脚,穿花盆底鞋:


Type: Silk Shoe

Description: 19th century China Decorative Arts Silk Shoe

Medium and Support: Silk, leather

Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Myrtle Shepherd Francis

Accession Number: 1951.15.42

Dimensions: 4 1/8 in. x 2 3/8 in. x 9 1/4 in. (10.48 cm x 6.03 cm x 23.5 cm)

  • “Womenfolk of the ruling Manchus did not bind their feet, instead those in high-ranking families wore a special shoe, exaggeratedly elevated, with a concave heel in the centre of the instep. As well as imitating the swaying gait caused by bound feet it also made them tower over the diminutive Chinese: “…the shoes stand upon a sole of four or six inches (10-15cm) in height or even more. These soles, which consist of a wooden frame upon which white cotton cloth is stretched, are quite thin from the toe and heel to about the centre of the foot, when they curve abruptly downwards, forming a base of 2 or 3 inches square (5-8cm). In use they are exceedingly inconvenient, but….they show the well-to-do position of the wearer. The Manchus are…a taller…race than the Chinese, and the artificial increase to the height afforded by these shoes gives them at time almost startling proportions.” (Garrett, 135-137)

3、满族儿童穿的八旗靴:

Title:Child's Boot (one of a pair)

Period:Qing dynasty (1644–1911)

Date:18th–19th century

Culture:China

Medium:Silk

Dimensions:11 1/2 x 5 1/4 in. (29.21 x 13.34 cm)

Classification:Costumes-Embroidered

Credit Line:Bequest of William Christian Paul, 1929

4、汉族男人穿的官靴:

  • Pair of men’s boots most likely worn by Han men or those of lower ranks due to its flat and thin sole, in black silk satin, with multiple thin leather/rubber piping at the front and back seams to reinforce the shape of the shoe. It has a green leather piping between the vamp and sole made of layers of felted paper and stitched leather at the bottom.

5、汉族女子需要裹脚,穿的三寸金莲鞋:




Type: Silk Shoe

Description: 19th century China Decorative Arts Silk Shoe

Medium and Support: Silk, leather

Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Myrtle Shepherd Francis

Accession Number: 1951.15.43.b

Dimensions: 2 7/8 in. x 2 in. x 4 3/4 in. (7.3 cm x 5.08 cm x 12.07 cm)

Woman's Shoe for Bound Feet

Artist: Date: 19th–20th century
Accession Number: 53.84.2
Date: 19th–20th centuryMedium: Silk, linen, leather, metallic thread
楚王好细腰,宫中多饿死。富二代和官二代的汉族女子们为了能入选皇宫,离井背乡,日夜伺奉大大,竞相效仿满族女子而打造出来的满汉混搭的花盆底三寸金莲鞋,一时间洛阳鞋贵。

Title: Lotus Shoes

Place of creation: China

Date: 19th century

Material: silk, cardboard and plaster

Inventory Number:ЛТ-1401

6、太监:开玩笑了,这也是汉族女鞋子,改良后的高跟鞋儿,既增加了身高,又看不见鞋跟儿。这种设计,高瞻远瞩,有现代意识,据说后来的斯大林和金正恩都很喜欢。

Description: 19th century

Medium and Support: Silk

Credit Line: Gift of Virginia Kincaid Huschke

Accession Number: 2010.247

Dimensions: 3 3/8 x 4 3/4 x 2 1/4 in. (9 x 12 x 6 cm)


膜拜

鸡蛋
6

鲜花
1

路过
2

雷人

开心
1

感动
1

难过

刚表态过的朋友 (11 人)

发表评论 评论 (2 个评论)

回复 天狼星 2020-8-7 15:08
都是有钱人的鞋子,普通人不该是踢死牛千层底和草鞋吗?
回复 sweeter 2020-8-8 00:50
那个三寸金莲花盆底,不知道一共摔死了几个人。

facelist doodle 涂鸦板

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